The conventional wisdom for traveling in the Himalayas is
this: if you want to see the rhododendrons blossoming you go
in the springtime; if you want to see the mountains you go
in the fall. In either case the window of opportunity is
narrow.
In 1998 and 2004 I was in Nepal in May and the trees were
thick with delightful rose and white and yellow flowers
while the mountains were invisible. Intent on reversing the
pattern, I spent the better part of this October in places
where I expected to see the panorama from the Annapurnas in
the west to Chomolungma in the east. All I saw were thick
banks of clouds with an occasional peak peering through. The
conventional wisdom did hold in part, however: not one
rhododendron flowered.
In an attempt to view the peaks, though, I visited places I
had never seen before. Instead of flying from Katmandu to
Pokhara, I took a taxi across the central part of the
country and stopped at Gorkha and Bandipur. In Pokhara I
climbed to the roof of my hotel and from there up to a
splendid viewing platform which may have been the highest
point in the city. From Pokhara I taxied to Sarangkot one
day and most of the way to the World Peace Stupa the next.
Back in Katmandu I took the tourist bus to Nagarkot and
stayed two nights at a hotel where “breathtaking” views were
the order of the day. In each place I saw only snippets of
the Himalayan peaks. But each place was also an experience
all its own.
Aside from standing in the presence of the peaks the main
reason for this trip to Nepal was to visit the temple at
Muktinath in the heart of the Annapurna range. It had been
on my radar for some time but getting there was daunting — a
two week trek. Then a road was built —although it was
notorious for its poor quality — and you could get up and
back in a few days. For the last few years you can fly both
ways with an overnight in between — in good weather, that
is. My flight from Pokhara to Jomsom airport was cancelled
and I got an eleven hour taste of the road which asphalt had
never touched. Three days after arriving at Muktinath my
return flight from Jomsom was cancelled because of high
winds. This time I waited a day and got to fly back to
Pokhara.
The temple and sanctuary at Muktinath are a world apart,
subtle and hardly noticeably different. You’re there,
performing all your usual activities with your usual
perceptions and thoughts and feelings and you ask yourself —
the next day and the day after that — “Who was I then”?
because who you were then and who you were before that is no
longer who you are; there’s been a change.
I had bought an iPad a few weeks before I left home. The
only reason I upgraded from an iPod was so that I could back
up photos from the SD cards. What I discovered, while I sat
in the Nirvana Garden Hotel’s garden in Katmandu, enjoying
my first breakfast, was that I could write and edit what I
wrote, something not possible on the tiny iPod. I typed out
some thoughts I was having in the moment. Then I wondered
who I might want to discuss those thoughts with. So began a
sporadic diary and email missives to 8 or 10 friends, some
of whom responded and some who just ignored me. You can find
my mostly-unabridged in-the-moment experiences (or as well
as I could recall them later that day or the next) along
with the photos I sent out at the time here.
Let’s not forget Katmandu.The city is endlessly fascinating.
Each time I think of returning to Katmandu I picture myself
walking the streets, seeing temples and shrines everywhere,
getting lost and finding a site I remember from an earlier
visit. That's exactly what I did this trip. I had no idea
where I was most of the time, no idea if I had ever been on
that route, and then I would see a sanctuary or a corner or
a chowk or a water spout that I had photographed 10 or 15 or
45 years ago. Yes, it's noisy and crowded and polluted, and
the traffic is dangerous, and it was hot and muggy in late
September and October, but it was like I had come home.
Maybe not home — more like a dream that never stops
revealing itself.